Friday, August 14, 2020

In the end of 1990's people were spending on clothes but the average spending price per item decreased. Why?

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The 80's were dominated by juppies and endless consuming. Juppies were like grown up hippies with a professional view and approach to the world. They had money, endless buying power and sophisticated opinions. They were powerful and ambitious with liberal ideas they were products of a cultural shift in the society.


The economic capital was in its peek but what happened to the cultural capital? Mobility grew and people worked more in big cities. Women were working which left less people at home. Towns and villages lost some of their cultural capital since people who used to gather were now working and there was no time for leisure, friends and family. Businesses became more like communities and shopping became a medium of communication and expression. The economic capital was in its height. People were working longer hours and as one consequence, families were breaking up. Divorce rates sky rocketed. Cultural capital diminished. Trust on government faded, there was a general lack of faith. This urged people to shop and spend more.


The belief system weakened and they were no longer able to draw distinctions based on their cultural capital. Instead they consumed and started to believe in the brands which were offering them answers, making them feel a part of something and being important. Through the end of 80's and beginning 0's people were trying to buy status, sophistication. The more prestigious things you had, the more appreciated you would be socially. At least that was the belief. Juppies wanted to distinguish themselves from the others by consuming, trying to collect cultural capital with economic capital. This was the golden time for brands and branding. Brands offered you life answers in small packages, all purchasable with money. You were able to buy an image and as long as you believed it yourself, you were fine. Image was everything. Or was it?


In the beginning of the 0's this endless consumption started to slightly shift. Consumers started to feel empty because they realized that money doesn't buy everything. After achieving everything in the material world, it still doesn't guarantee happiness. At the same time, it was more difficult to distinguish yourself anymore because anyone could buy the brand. Therefore it was not special anymore. It was time to move on as cultural capital is vulnerable. (For example elite needs to move on as soon as normal folk are able to buy/act as they are. They are not special anymore. Also established people had the money. After everyone was able to get what they had, brands were not important anymore, they needed to move on. It did not bring status anymore.) Hence the shift towards experiences. People still consumed, but there had to be an experience behind it. From 80's image now there was a shift to brand experience. Brands started with flagship stores, cafes, hotels, restaurants etc. expanding what ever their product was, to a whole experience. This way giving the feeling that the consumption was not empty minded anymore, there was a thinking and logic behind it, an experience of the product.


Quality time became more important and owning many things didn't seem so important all of a sudden. People wanted to get more value for their time, to spend time with family, to feel important and understood. All this they wanted through meaningful experiences. However, to simply buy experiences also started to seem wrong and shallow. Realization that paying for self worth and appreciation do not accumulate cultural capital sank in, at the same time promoting compassion, humanity, kindness and gift-giving as acts of real contribution to a higher value of cultural and social capital. Also just plain experiences started to lose their worth.


Having exhausted themselves by consuming in the 80's and seeking endless experiences at the 0's, people started to again look for the bigger meaning. They had realized that a logo does not bring you happiness and status. A shop or restaurant experience does not make your life meaningful. Therefore, in the end of 0's the next logical step was to rethink the way they were buying. Value of time became more important. The message behind the brands started to raise questions. Non-profit organizations seemed to be a way to channel your money in a safe way since surely they must have had a good message. A trend from commercialism turned into non commercialism. Items with social values or messages started to be more important than logo's. The inside started to count more than outside. Before they were trying to buy self esteem and status. Now they might have still tried to buy it but in a more subtle way, bying their inner peace without flashing it out in their clothes. Investing in non profit companies and brands you knew that you were doing something good to the society/world and with that inner peace, the outside seemed more irrelevant. The cultural capital that was lost in the 80's, was now reinvented again.


Fashion really boomed as an industry in the 80's and 0's. For the first time there was money involved. Juppies saw this but by the end of 0's they had experienced that the economic capital (or even cultural capital) will never reach the level of paintings etc. At the same time the time period was the boom of the catwalks and in the beginning only available for elite. Later with mass production and copying and steeling designs, everything became available to everybody . It decreased the economical and cultural value. It wasn't possible to distinguish from each other anymore. From there the elite moved on luxury products like cashmere etc. which had the value that if you really knew the features of that fabric, you knew that it was expensive and luxury product but the brand flashing was not needed anymore. The trend also moved towards thinking more than showing. You could still be fashionable even if you didn't show it with brands. Maybe it was even more important to intellectuals, to understand it, to be part of the field, but not show it with brands anymore. The value was more inside than outside. Like the kings in France, when you have it all, there is no need to prove anything with clothes anymore.


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